The Maidan

Often referred to as the 'lungs' of Kolkata, the Maidan is a huge green expanse of India's most scarce commodity - open space. Its most imposing feature is Fort William, which was rebuilt there in 1758 after the original fort was destroyed. The fort is still in official use and is off-limits to visitors.

In the northeastern section is Eden Gardens, which houses the famous Calcutta Cricket Ground (Ranji Stadium) - Just west of the gardens is a pleasant spot for walking or cruising along the Hooghly River. South of the Maidan is the well-established zoo and beyond that the peaceful Horticultural Gardens.

At the southern end of the Maidan, the Victoria Memorial is possibly the most awesome reminder of the Raj to be found in India. This huge white-marble museum is filled with a vast collection of remnants from the period of British Empire rule, including a piano that was played by Queen Victoria as a young girl. It also includes the Calcutta Gallery and National Leaders Gallery, with exhibits on the history of Kolkata, the Raj and its various political and social leaders.

Kali Temple

Also known as Kalighat, the Kali Temple was rebuilt in 1809 on the site of the actual temple from which Kalikata (anglicised to Calcutta) took its name. Kali represents the destructive side of Lord Shiva: legend has it that when the corpse of his wife was cut up, one of her fingers fell here. It has since been an important pilgrimage site. On a less grizzly note, next door is Mother Teresa's Hospital for the Dying Destitute, where the Missionaries' important work can be observed first-hand. The temple and hospital are 2km (1.2mi) southeast of the zoo.

Recommended Reading

Although it receives its share of criticism for its portrayal of Kolkata's poverty situation, Dominique Lapierre's City of Joy is still widely enjoyed by travelers and can be found at most of Kolkata's bookshops.

Geoffrey Moorhouse's classic 1971 study Calcutta makes for a good snapshot of the city while VS Naipaul's India - A Million Mutinies Now has some engaging chapters on Kolkata.

The insightful and interesting 10 walks in Calcutta, by Prosenjit Das Gupta, offers cultural, historical and contemporary walking 'packages' of the city, replete with maps.

The works of Kolkata's famed poet and novelist Rabindranath Tagore can be sampled in his Selected Short Stories, showcasing a brilliant Bengali outlook on the world.

There has been much said, and indeed written, about Mother Teresa and her work in Kolkata, including Mother Teresa: Beyond the Image by Anne Sebba and Mother Teresa by Navin Chawla, among many others.

The Telegraph is Kolkata's daily newspaper ( also online at http://www.telegraphindia.com ) while Calcutta Online ( http://www.netguruindia.com/cal/index.asp ) also provides current news on Kolkata and India.